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Journeys through the Montagne Noire
Pradelles-Cabardès
Pradelles-Cabardés is a small town, situated on a hilly plateau, about 850 km above sealevel. This town is dominated by the highest top of the Montagne Noire, the Pic de Nore (1211 m). In the 13th century, the village was specialized in the storage of ice balls for the towns in the valleys below. In Summer, the ice was used for the preservation of meat. The many inns relied on the ice from Pradelles. This made the town very prosperous. The first ice pits were holes in the ground, covered by a stone construction to keep the ice from melting in the sun. In the course of the centuries the demand for ice grew and grew. In 1902 there were no less than 14 ice pits (glacières) and the ice balls, which would weigh up to 50 kilograms, were pulled out of the pits by horse-sledges and transported at night to Carcassonne, Mazamet, Narbonne and Sète. In 1905 the record showed a sale of 30.000 ice balls! Pradelles became the richest town in the Montagne Noire.
However, after the invention of the refrigerator in the 20th century, the ice industry collapsed and many inhabitants of Pradelles-Cabardès moved to the big cities. Today, Pradelles is a quiet village near a lake, visited by tourists for its clean fresh mountain air and beautiful nature walks. The yellow tour brings you to the remains of the glacières and if you like, even to the top of the Pic de Nore.
The name Cabardès originated from Cabaret, the name of the main castle of Lastours. Pradelles means ‘little prairie'. The Lake of Pradelles, also called Lac Birotos, is a wonderful place to sit or have a refreshing swim. In Summer months you can sit on a small terrace by the lakeside and enjoy an ice cream or a cool drink. The town also has a cafe-restaurant and a hotel.
Horsebackriding around Pradelles
On the other side of Pradelles lies a western farm from where you can take daytrips on horseback. Some experience is a ‘must', because you will go into nature. The paths go through the woodland, through a river or a steep bend with a backdrop. Some parts will go in trot. When you are insecure in the saddle, you can take a one hour lesson inside the barn on sandy soil. There are 1, 2 and 3 hour journeys, daytrips and trips for more than one day. The riding is based on western style (usually with a knob on the saddle) and they use for instance apalusa's and quarter horses which are a little smaller and therefore much better equipped for mountainous rides. Riding through nature is a wonderful, adventurous experience.
Castans
Castans is the name given to the communion which exists of seven villages: Bourdials, Escandelle, La Fargue, Laviale, Quintaine, Raissac and Les Thérondels. The name Castans is derived from the word castagne, chestnut, which immediately betrays the old trade of this communion. The trade in chestnuts is however hardly alive today. The seven villages are located at seven wells. Seven is the symbolic number of Castans and its village council consists of seven women. In Laviale we find an old cross (1640) and a 12th century chapel. A walk through the seven villages takes a lot of time but it's beautiful surroundings attract nature lovers who come here especially to walk through the area. In Laviale there is a Gite d'Etappe and a Gite Rural.
Near Castans we find ‘Les Lama's de la Montagne Noire', a lama farm where you can rent a lama to carry your luggage when you should decide to walk through the mountains on foot for a few days. The lama farm is usually open throughout the year.
Lastours
Lastours is the name given to four castles: Cabaret (which gave its name to the area called Cabardès), Tour Régine, Fleur d'Espine and Quertinheux. In the 12th century these castles formed the fortification Cabaret. Here, the Lord of the castle, Pierre Roger de Cabaret, fought for and protected the Cathar population of the Montagne Noire. In 1210, Simon de Montfort failed in his first attempt to take Cabaret during the Cathar crusade. The Cathars who had fled the other fortified cities which had already fallen, went to Cabaret, which seemed impregnable.
However, in 1211 Pierre Roger de Cabaret was outnumbered by the army of Simon de Montfort and had to surrender. The Cathars who were able to flee, vanished in the woods of the Montagne Noire, where they hid in the many caves. According to legend, the Cathars, who called themselves ‘good christians', were in possession of a treasure, holy relics and secret knowledge, all hidden in several places to avoid destruction by the catholic army.
The Pic de Nore
From up here you have on a clear day a magnificent view of the area. The Pic de Nore with its 1211 meters is the highest top of the Montagne Noire and here also stands the television tower. When the air is crisp and clear, you can even see the snow topped Pyrenees from here!
Hautpoul
In the year 413, Ataulphe I, king of the Visigoths, founded Hautpoul. This castle underwent the same destiny as many other castles in the area, it was destroyed by Cathar hunter Simon de Montfort during the crusades against the Cathars. The ones who survived, settled in the plains near the gorge of the Arnette.
Hautpoul, where the remains of the 5th century Visigoth stronghold and the statue of Mary dominate the entire area, is definitely worth a visit. From the remains of the castle you have a good view over the valley of Mazamet. Many legends tell about the treasure of the Visigoths. The Romans, who sacked Jerusalem, took with them many treasures back to Rome, after which the Visigoths, many centuries later, sacked Rome and took their treasure to the Languedoc.
Hautpoul is one of the places where, according to legend, the treasure of Sion was temporarily hidden.
Mazamet
Mazamet is, like Carcassonne, a big French provincial town with shops, terraces and sites. In the 16th century, during the Religious Wars, Mazamet was a fortified protestant town, which was plundered and destroyed on 12th August 1628. Today, Mazamet hardly has any old buildings left because of this event, but its main attraction is its location at the foot of the Montagne Noire. Mazamet owes its prosperity to the leather and wool industry, which flourished from the 18th century up until today. In and around Mazamet you will find stores which supply leather and woolen clothes and other articles for an interesting price.
The Caves of Limousis
The Caves of Limousis were formed by an underground stream and are of incredible beauty. The caves are now largely dry and one of its main attractions is the "Lustre", a group of white crystals of aragonite. The enormous chandelier has an outline of 10 meters! The 663 meters long caves, which were discovered in 1811, have several rooms. The prehistoric people of the area lived in this and other caves, along with the cave bear. In the course of man's history it also became a place of refuge, for example to the Cathars.
Snuggly situated in the valley of the Clamoux lies Cabrespine. You pass it on your way up to the Pic de Nore from Villeneuve-Minervois. This is an ancient place. The remains of its 13th century castle lie high above the town. Many villages, churches, chapels and castles in the Montagne Noire were built in the 12th and 13th century. In this period, many people fled the wars between the catholic army and the Cathar inhabitants and came here to rebuild their lives. In the mountains one could hide in the thick forests and secret caves, whenever there would be a threat. These Cathars were people who followed a different track of christianity than the dogmatic catholic church prescribed. For this reason alone they were persecuted and murdered by the armies of the pope. Pope John Paul II has, however, publicly apologized for this grave mistake of the church against peace loving people. After all, a million people died an awful death in the ca. two centuries of Cathar (Albigensian) crusades.
During this period, the castle of Cabrespine was the subject of a judicial lawsuit between Simon de Montfort and Guillaume, the abbot of Lagrasse. De Montfort had gained possession of the castle after the successful siege, and he had also of many other castles which he had taken during his war against the ‘heretics'. Judge Thédise, however, returned the town of Cabrespine and its castle to the abbot and indemnified De Montfort otherwise in August 1215. It is likely that, because of the vicinity of the famous castles of Lastours, the castle of Cabrespine has known no other activity during the crusades. The remains are difficult to access and visiting the chateau is at one's own risk.
It is a small adventure to walk through Cabrespine. The narrow, winding streets take the visitor up to medieval uninhabited buildings, and there are lovely views over the valley of the Clamoux. From the Place de l'Eglise you can enjoy pleasant walks through the area. The only café (Ch'Timi) is situated on the main road. Here you can sit on its small terrace and enjoy a cool drink. On the opposite is a little fruit stall. When you reach the banks of the river Clamoux, you will see a fishing place where you can rent fishing gear during the season. Another building houses an invisible restaurant, where on appointment, one can have a pleasant home cooked meal.
On the other side of the Clamoux, opposite of the fishing place, there is an old street which leads to the rocks above. It is called Impasse de la Parfait, the street of the Perfecta, a woman Cathar priestess. She was probably hiding in one of the many caves of the area.
In the 18th century the Neo-Gothic church was built, replacing an older church. Inside you can see lovely sculpture. Apart from the town's charm and the lovely nature walks one can make from the church square, Cabrespine's most important attraction is the famous Gouffre de Cabrespine, a Giant Cave which is also uniquely accessible for wheelchairs.
Gouffre de Cabrespine
You only have to follow the signs from all over the area around Carcassonne to find Cabrespine. It is enthusiastically promoted and it should be. This gorge is the top part of a subterranean system of corridors, eroded by the river Clamoux. Due to its enormous size, one can safely speak of a Giants Gorge. The rock formations exist from run out calcite masses, which have been colored by minerals. Besides the well known stalagmites and stalactites you can also admire curtains of aragonite. The cave's temperature is constant and only about 15 degrees Celsius, so when you visit in high Summer, bring a sweater or a coat or a vest. You are allowed to take photos and video. The parking is free of charge and you can also sit down and have a drink and a snack. There is a lovely souvenir shop and a tourist information point. The caves are closed between 12.00 and 14.00 hours.

Saissac
This medieval town has a feudal castle and a folk museum. This museum is open in July and August and during the French school holidays. It is also open on appointment in the other months. You can stroll around the old streets of Saissac towards the remains of the castle, which are well worth a visit. In 960, this was the site of a big Carolinian stronghold. In the 11th century, the family who owned the castle was one of the most important in the Montagne Noire. The Lord of the castle, who was subordinated to the Count of Carcassonne, strengthened the fortifications around in this period. In the 12th century there were many conflicts between the Lords of Toulouse and Barcelona on who should rule the Midi. In this particular period many towns, castles and cities were fortified. The Cathars sought protection behind their strong walls. Also Saissac supported the Cathars. The well known troubadour Peire Vidal was a much seen guest at the castle of Saissac.
During the crusades against the Cathars, all Lords of the Languedoc who protected these people were branded outlaws. Their castles were taken and their possessions became the property of the French crown. French catholic noblemen took profit from this, as their participation in this crusade enabled them to take possession of many castles and pieces of land, being the reward for their input. Jourdain de Saissac succeeded in recapturing his castle for a little while, but after 1242 he had to surrender again.
The inhabitants of the Montagne Noire have a weak spot for the Cathars, who, in spite of the inquisition and their goal to crush the Cathars forever, would be able to rebuild their lives again in the villages of the Montagne Noire.
The Waterfall at Cubserviès
Not far from Pradelles, in a hidden corner of the Montagne Noire, is a beautiful waterfall, best seen from the tiny village of Cubserviès. This village enjoys its seclusion so much, that the inhabitants took away the road sign. But if you do discover the left turn near the 12th century chapel towards the ancient site, you will enter a land of magic. People call it ‘Terre de Dieu', the Land of God. This would refer to abbeyland. The village is built on the remains of what seem to be an old Visigoth stronghold and on the left hand side from the parking place you will discover the 90 meters high waterfall. Standing here and enjoying the beauty of the area, one must feel indeed to be in the land of God. Near the entrance road lies a 12th century chapel which reminds the visitor of the importance of the site. Cubserviès or Capservie means ‘service to the head', which reminds us of the Templar monks who were believed to have worshipped a head (Baphomet, Baptist, the head of John the Baptist?)....
Going through the village and following the narrow but gorgeous mountain road, you will arrive at Roquefère.
Roquefere
This old village was built around the rock called d'Engalière and is mentioned together with Mas-Cabardès, on the list of ‘Prettiest Towns of France'. The town of Roquefère is dominated by the castle, built in 1638 by Francois Cathala from Mas-Cabardès on the remains of a much older castle. Parts of the castle are built in the Louis XIII style. The church was built on a straight rock. A bit further you arrive at the Calvary, where you can take a nice stroll. And finally, Sire de Cabarèt (04-68-263189) is a wonderful address for a delicious local dinner. During the Summer months it is nearly always open from 19.30 hours till late, serving delicacies from the Montagne Noire.
La Tourette
Not far from Roquefère lies the pretty Cathar village of La Tourette, like a balcony on the Cabardès. This ancient village still has a few medieval remains, like the Church of St. Anne. This church is part of the old fortress and the site has the character of a well fortified community.
Mas Cabardès
This pittoresk town situated on the banks of the river Orbiel, lies at the foot of the remains of the old castle. It is lovely to stroll through its old streets. The Romanesque church with its octagonal tower is one of the nicest of the Cabardès. Another interesting site is the 16th century stone cross with shuttle, which is a reminder of the flourishing textile industry.
'Moulin à papier de Brousses'
In Brousses-et-Villaret stands an old paper mill, in which a museum is situated. Here you will find out all about the history of making paper. The museum is open throughout the year.
St. Papoul
The abbey of St. Papoul was founded in the 12th century. The monastery was built in the 14th century. Apart from these monuments, also the town of St. Papoul is worth a visit.
Montolieu
This little ‘village de livre' is well known for its many bookstores. Montolieu is romantically situated at the confluence of the river Dure and Alzau in the Cabardès. There are approximately twenty bookstores and a museum for graphic arts and professions.
 The Abbey of Villelongue
This abbey was originally founded in Compagnes, but it was later moved to Villelongue in the valley of the Vernassonne. In the 13th century the abbey enjoyed a period of prosperity. Afterwards it was neglected and fell into decay. Today, the remains of the monastery are a joy to visit.
Le Gourp de la Loutre
When you follow the river Arnette from Pradelles to Mazamet, you will reach the entrance on the left side of the road after about 15 minutes by car.This is a beautiful picnic spot with a small animal park from where 4 beautiful walks lead into nature. The picnic area lies on the bank of the river Arnette, exactly where it curves on its rocky bed. In the past, a small group of otters lived here, but due to the increasing fishing here, there wasn't enough food for them anymore and they left. The nature walks which leave from the Gourp de la Loutre are 12, 9, 7 and 4 km and travel partially through wet areas, so watertight shoes or boots are preferable.
For more information, visit the Tourist Information Office in Mazamet or Carcassonne. During the Summer holidays, the Maison de Montagne Noire is also opened. This information point is situated on the D118 (Carcassonne-Mazamet).
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